Kappeln

On Wednesday July 4th we left the marina at Moltenort after taking a walk around the village and visiting the memorial to the u boat crews that were lost at sea. Apparently 80% of the uboat folk never returned and there are rows and rows of names carved into the black granite facia. All very sombre. Of course we all have our own views on the whole issue, and one comment in the visitors book said it all, " Never again".
We had a lovely sail North along the coast in sunshine, although the seas were a bit lumpy, and then turned into Eckenforde. The Danish fjords are all wide with rolling green hills, quite reminiscent of Devon. The town of Eckenforde is at the head of the fjord and has two marinas. The one recommended to us and closest to the town looked very full and also uninviting because the wind by now had strengthened to about 20kn and as it faced back down the fjord and into the wind it looked as though it could be uncomfortable. We chose the bigger marina close to the naval base and were glad we did. Nice big berths, good facilities and restaurant together with free bikes to get us the 2 km into town. All for €18 a night inclusive of electricity.
The next day was spent shopping, particularly for beer, gin and whisky all of which are cheap here while the prices in Denmark are very high.
On Friday 6th July we were headed back down the Eckenforde by 9 am, and North again past the marina and resort of Damp ( well named, it was drizzling). Five miles further on we turned into the Schlei ( as in Sly). This is where Davies and Carruthers met Bartles, the skipper of the trading vessel and were taken duck shooting by the pilot in the Riddle of the Sands so we looked out for what we thought might have been the pilot's house.
A beautiful fjord bordered with green fields and woods with a number of tempting anchorages. We were bound for the town of Kappeln however and by 3pm we were in yet another box mooring right by the main drag and restaurants. Thank goodness the cruising association guide had mentioned the strong current that can run across these moorings because both Wandering Star and us made allowance for it and berthed without too much drama. Some others were not so lucky and ended up all over the place.
The current in these fjords is an interesting phenomena because there are no big rivers running into them and the current seems to be driven by barometric pressure but is not predictable. Today ( 7th July ) Keren and I watched it. No current at all until about 10.30am and by 4pm it was flowing fast enough to catch folk out again.
Apart from being a pretty place Kappeln has an amazing yacht chandlery. Run by a wizened old fellow it is an Aladdins cave of yachtie stuff, particularly things stainless.
Tomorrow we're off up the Schlei to look at Schleswig before heading to Flensburg, but that's another blog.