A long time since our last post. Wifi reception has been like the weather, bad.
From Lauwersoog we locked out into a grey lumpy North Sea on Tuesday June 26th having waited for a window in the weather to make the two longish legs across the German Frisian islands.
We were now really into Riddle of the Sands territory and headed to Nordeney. We immediately got into the spirit of the book by following a channel which was marked on both the chart and the chart plotter but had no buoys! Shore to the right and breakers to the left for about 3 miles, and no Davies on board.
We have noticed before that buoys can be moved or missing. Good job the wind was only F3, although the seas were big as a result of the previous windy weather.
We passed by the entrance to the rivers Jade and Weser where we counted 12 ships waiting on the tide to go up river.
The entrance to Nordeney is tortuous and quite intimidating for a West country sailor, because the channel makes a number of turns and the sand banks are evident by the froth and breakers quite close to the buoys. Fortunately, in this case the buoys are easily visible. Nordeney harbour and marina had, for us, nothing to recommend it and is a long way from town.
The crew agreed that Erskine Childers can keep the Waddenzee!
On the next day (June 27th), we sailed to Cuxhaven. A long day sail of 67nm but quite enjoyable as the wind was fair and the seas quite calm. We were sailing in company with an English couple in a Westerly Sealord called Wandering Star, ( Janet and Chris) with whom we kept intermittent contact en route. The river Elbe, running into Cuxhaven is very impressive. So wide at the entrance that you cannot see any shore but actually quite a narrow deep water channel with sandbanks to right and left. Lots of really big ships going both ways, so yachts have to stay outside the main shipping channel. Feels like being a hedgehog by a motorway.
Halfway along the channel to Cuxhaven we heard Chris calling on channel 16 to say that his engine had failed! Nice timing! We acted as relay for the Elbe rescue services, Alan talking on the radio while Anne and I turned around to go to him and made ready our heaving line and long warp.
What a display when we got back to him about 15 minutes later! The Elbe pilot vessel was standing by, while a police boat came storming up to drop a big RIB off a ramp at the stern in true commando style, and then the big SAR ( search and rescue) launch did likewise. Wandering Star was already taking a tow from a big Dutch yacht, so Jomora and the SAR launch stood by while they were towed into Cuxhaven marina.
We were very impressed with the response to the distress call, but apparently similar events happen quite often in the Elbe, and because it is such an important river for the German economy every effort is made to keep the channels clear for shipping.
The big marina in Cuxhaven is impressive. Nice box moorings with pontoons, clean, efficient and a really nice restaurant all for €18 a night! It is also a short walk from the old part of Cuxhaven which is surprisingly pretty.
At Cuxhaven Jomora had a crew change on Friday June 29th. Alan and Ann left on the train to see Hamburg before flying home and Keren arrived with Mike and Theresa. They had very kindly picked Keren up at Hamburg station the evening before and after showing her Hamburg had taken the trouble to drive her to Cuxhaven. Mike had even printed the details of the Kiel canal locks for us. Thank you both of you!
On 30th June we sailed up the Elbe on the morning flood tide to the southern lock of the Kiel canal at Brunsbuttel. We had such a tide that we were sailing at 9 knots in a F3 with just the genoa, do not fall overboard in the river Elbe! We counted at least twenty boats waiting to enter the Alte lock which is the one reserved for little people. The other one had an enormous cruise liner in it. We let all the folk gallop in, and as recommended we hung back, let them tie up to the slippery floating pontoon and then went alongside. I have worked out that being last through locks and bridges is the way to go.
The Kiel canal is also very impressive, especially considering that it was originally built by the Kaiser before the first world war. It is wide, tree lined with 40m high bridges and lots of sophisticated traffic lights, which fortunately apply to the monster ships that use it as we did not fully understand the instructions Mike supplied! Yachts scuttle along the sides of the canal, but there is plenty of room for all. The big ships are closely regulated with pilots on board and travel quite slowly.
The weather was glorious, ( have we finally left the bad weather behind??), shorts and T shirt again.
Mid afternoon saw us turning up the delightful tributary to Rendsburg where we tied up at the tree lined Regatta-Verien marina. We are getting good at box moorings finally, slid into this one like Nordic professionals.