Wednesday, 7 November 2012

Pictures of the previous year

Now that we have our blog on a PC, we can download some photos of the Baltic:

The swing bridge at Kappeln in Germany
 
The Danish royal yacht at Sonderborg

Peaceful Danish anchorages


Queens Jubilee pontoon party at Travemunde

Haul out for the winter at Fehmarn

 
 
 

Friday, 7 September 2012

Jomora put to bed for the winter

We stayed longer than intended in Neustadt, three days. This was because the mooring was so convenient and well placed for services that we were able to complete a number of lay up chores as well as enjoying the cafes, sunshine and general ambience!
On Friday 31st we finally left and sailed the thirty miles North along the coast past Gromitz to Fehmarn. A day that started off great at 8:30 with sunshine and a F3 close reach rapidly went downhill to F5 headwind and pouring rain with thunder and lightning. The Germans make comments about how it rains in Cornwall, but Baltic rain is like being under a fire hose - you can hear it gurgling away through the cockpit drains. To cap it all after we had got well soaked and moored up at the marina berth, the sun came out and the wind dropped. Boat looked like a Chinese laundry.
We then spent a couple of days removing the sails slackening the rigging and generally cleaning ready for storage.
The big day came on 4th September when the mast was plucked out and our summer home hoisted on to a trailer to go into the storage shed until next May. After a further two days cleaning up the boat it was off to Hamburg and then home for the winter.
We have had an amazing cruise. The parts of the Baltic we have visited so far are all they are cracked up to be, no tides, short distances to cover, plenty of good anchorages and marinas, nice people, and the weather has definitely been better than in the UK.
Looking forward to Sweden next summer! Watch this blog.
When we get back and figure out how to use this blog on an IPad we will post some photos.





Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Onwards towards Fehmarn to lay up

On Saturday August 25th after a curry supper aboard Freya, owned by a fellow CA members we did not feel like completing the 40 mile haul to Gedser (how lazy we are getting!), so we pottered around the island of Poel eastwards and then sailed up the Ellenbogen sound to the little holiday town of Rerik. A very typical German seaside resort with little hotels and restaurants on the "strand". Rerik has a southern beach facing the sound and, across a narrow spit, a northern beach facing the Baltic and looking across to the Danish island of Falster some 30 miles away. The marina is on the south side and is approached by a three mile channel with only 3-4 metres water depth outside which is a metre or less. A nice protected place to wait out the strong winds forecast on Sunday. We spent the afternoon shopping for tonic water, (to go with the gin), and then lazing in the cockpit in the sun watching the holiday makers.
We ended up spending two windy but sunny days in Rerik eating, reading and starting the general boat clean in preparation for lay up. We did all the German seaside stuff while in Rerik - ate curry worst and apple strudel as well as lots of fish and pork, went to the beach, and sat outside cafes out of the wind but in the sun.
On Tuesday 28th we worked up energy enough to leave Rerik, but in view of the date and the weather, decided that crossing back to Denmark was a step too far, so we sailed back across the Wismar Bay to Neustadt, which is in the general direction of Fehmarn where we will put Jomora to bed for seven months.
A lovely sail due west with 12 to 15kn from the South and Jomora tramping along at hull speed almost all the way.
There is a huge marina on the south side of the entrance to Neustadt, but based on pontoon advice at Rerik we took a mooring up the river closer to town. Nicely situated box mooring, ( we're finally getting pretty slick at these), close to water, power and a tree lined footpath and not far from the centre of town. Further along, moored up against the wall near to the road bridge there are a number of old restored fishing boats. We will stay here for two days to see the old town and, as there are good washing machines close by, we will get some clothes and bed linen washed.




Friday, 24 August 2012

In East Germany, (that was )

From Travemunde we sailed around the coast East into the Wismar Bucht. Nice sail of about 25 miles with the wind abeam or aft. We are well into what used to be the GDR, (East Germany) now. We moored in a tiny marina close to the centre of town opposite a coaster unloading coal! Fortunately the wind was blowing the dust away from us, but it was quite noisy. We had told been by a skipper at the rally to go to the Alte Haven, (old harbour), but it was narrow, dirty and full of tripper boats. It must have changed since he was there! Next day, August 22nd, we spent walking around the town. A beautiful small 16th century town with lots of half timbered houses that has been totally restored since re-unification. We saw two aerial photos of the town, one in 1990 about the time the wall came down, and another in 2005. The changes are amazing. When it was The GDR, all the plaster was peeling off the buildings and power lines were strung everywhere, really third world looking.
To us, there still seems to be quite a difference between West Germany and what used to be East Germany however, The people are not so jolly and very few of the folk older than thirty speak any English.
On Thursday August 23rd we sailed all of eight miles to an inlet in the island of Poel which is just North of Wismar. There we moored in a box mooring in the village of Kirchdorf. Really like going back to the nineteen fifties! The harbour master has to come and unlock the electricity box and the water tap and you have to go the the library to get a WIFI connection. Still, a pretty little place with cheap restaurants and well worth the visit.
Tomorrow ( 25th), all being well we will cross back to Denmark to visit Gedser.



Monday, 6 August 2012

Fehmarn

Arrived back to the boat at Middelfart late afternoon on Sunday August 12th. The journey from UK was uneventful apart from a fire on the train from Copenhagen! Thick smoke billowing into our carriage and an unscheduled train change at Korsor.
On Monday 13th we sailed from Middelfart down the East side of the Lille Bealt past Assens and Faaborg to a small sheltered anchorage well placed for the next leg. A blustery but sunny day with the wind from the South East, just where we were headed.
We hoped for better weather on Tuesday as the forecast was for Easterly winds F 3-4 and we were planning to sail just East of South to Fehmarn, (where we will return early Septamber to lay up).
We had a good time threading our way through the channels behind the islands of Drejo and Aero but when we got to sea for the 40 mile leg to Fehmarn, no prizes for guessing that we were fated to be hard on the wind for the whole time.
Everything ends however and we were safely moored at Fehmarn marina by 7pm.
Today, Wednesday 15th was spent visiting the boatyard where we will lay up, and arranging to have some shipwrights and engine jobs completed during the winter.

Friday, 3 August 2012

Back to Germany - rally at Travemunde

Having settled the details of the winter lay up at the yard in Fehmarn, we sailed 30 miles South to the town of Travemunde on Thursday 16th August to attend the Cruising Association rally. A lovely sail close reaching at 6knots in sunshine nearly all the way.
We moored at the Passathaven marina, so named because the huge four masted barque Passat is moored on the outside of the marina.
There followed a series of trips and parties to celebrate the gathering of the 20 or so boats. For us the highlights were a trip up the river to Lubeck on a replica sixteenth century sailing ship and a tour plus dinner aboard the Passat.
The weather has been very hot, 30 degrees and no wind so we have been moving around slowly and seeking the shade!
It has been interesting to visit other folk on their yachts. The most experienced sailors are a couple of old ladies of 75 and 78 who have sailed all over the Baltic and Norway during the last ten years in their 36ft yacht!
The boats range from a huge 45ft Halberg Rassy to a little 28ft Twister that has been sailed across the Mediterranean as well as the Baltic.
Perhaps the only common denominator is age, every one seems to be retired, which makes sense I suppose. Who else can spend half a year sailing?
On Monday 20th we move on and sail East. More of that later.....

Monday, 23 July 2012

Middelfart and a visit home via Copenhagen

Decided to visit UK for a couple of weeks. Keren has to go back to look after my Mum, we have a wedding to attend in early August and I would like to see my sons and daughters after three months away, so we are leaving Jomora at the marina in Middelfart for a while. The honorary local representative for the cruising association recommended the marina and then arranged the berth for us. Thank goodness again for the CA.
We've had some good cruising since the last blog despite the weather being generally poor.
After leaving Haderslev we ghosted down the fjord for about four miles and anchored at a lovely spot we had noted on the way in, between Dvaelo island and Fordholm. Well sheltered under the trees from the fresh SE wind, and we shared the spot with a host of jellyfish, mostly the small clear kind but a few pink monsters with long tentacles.
On Thursday July 19th, we explored North along the coast looking in at Hejlsmunde and Mosvig Bay, before anchoring in the corner of Gatrup Vig in Kolding Fjord where we encountered thunder, lightning and torrential rain. The lightning got so close that we switched off all the electrics for a while just in case. Not sure if that does any good, but made us feel better!
Next day we sailed down Kolding fjord into Faeno sound, and up Gamborg Fjord before anchoring to the East of Faeno Island. Faeno Island is private and is owned by the boss of LM yachts. Apparently it's quite a place complete with a hunting lodge. This was the first anchorage we have stopped at that was not totally sheltered. The wind was supposed to be West, but had some North in it, was gusting to F6 and we pitched a little during the night despite the shelter of a hill and trees.
We really are getting soft! It would be considered a really good anchorage in the Scilly isles.
So on Saturday 21st July we went all of two miles to our pre booked berth in Middelfart marina and stayed there over Sunday to do yet more clothes washing and to clean the boat before leaving for the UK via a stop in Copenhagen to see the sights.
More when we get back. We will then be heading South back to Germany to join a Cruising Association rally at Travemunde, And cruising along the German Baltic coast before laying up for the winter at Fehmarn.

Monday, 16 July 2012

Sondeborg, Dyvig, theGenner Bucht and Haderslev

On 11th July we rented bikes from the marina and rode up the hill outside Sonderborg to the Dybbol memorial. This centre commemorates the war between Denmark and Germany which ended in 1864 with the Danes being defeated by the Prussians and losing all of Schleswig Holstein. It wasn't until 1920 that the people of these two districts had a referendum and the current borders were settled. The redoubts and gun emplacements have been rebuilt as they were at the time and there are film shows to explain the battles.
Although the bike ride was only about eight kilometres, Keen and I had sore rears when we got ack to to the boat!
On Thursday 12th July we had planned to sail to Augustenborg, which is North up the Als fjord and then South East down the Augustenborg fjord, a grand total of about 14nm. The wind however was strong, there were lots of rain clouds scudding by, so we cheated, walked into Sonderborg and caught the bus instead!
We are glad we did. Augustenborg is a quite pretty little village but the marina is nothing special and the wind was whistling down the fjord, making the place seem most uninviting. A nice lunch at a local cafe, bus back, and settle down in the boat to read and write part of this blog.
Friday 13th, unlucky for some, saw the wind ease and shift to South West so we had a glorious sunny sail North up the Als fjord and then West before turning North again into Dyvig. A really narrow entrance leads into an enchanting little bay at the head of which is an hotel and small marina. We anchored again in about 3m with our stern about thirty metres off the reed lined shore, pumped up the dinghy and went ashore. The hotel is a " Bade" hotel, which seems to mean a hotel were families stay to go bathing. There are jetties, dinghies and a floating bouncy castle moored just off the beach, a great place for kids to have fun in the water. We had a look inside the hotel - expensive! Back to the boat for a sundowner and supper listening to the birds singing in the trees.
Saturday 14th July, we sailed again in company with Wandering Star out of Dyvig and across the Abenraa fjord past the island of Barso and into the Genner Bugt which is a little bay on the South Jutland shore. Another idyllic anchorage which was so nice that we stayed there two nights while exploring around the bay by foot and in the dinghy as well as cleaning the hull and decks.
Wandering Star left us on Sunday to sail to Flensburg to pick up a relative. We hope to join them later.
Time to move again as we needed civilisation for water provisions and a WIFI connection, so on Monday 16th July we sailed out of the bay and North again up the Jutland coast and into Haderslev fjord. The town of Haderslev lies at the head of the fjord which like most of the others on this coast lie SW/NE so it tends be an upwind plug travelling up them.
We left at 0930 and roared North under a reefed genoa in 25knots of West wind. We then had to turn just South of West to motor up the fjord which although wide has a narrow winding channel for 7 miles. A weary slog although the scenery made up for it despite the frequent rain showers. This fjord is very reminiscent of the Fal up to Ruan Lanihorn when the tide is in, ( and it's always in here).
Fun getting into the box mooring at Haderslev. Cross wind, cross current, cross skipper and cross crew. Still, no damage and off to the local cafe for a beer, wine and Biksmad, ( a Danish dish with meat, potatoes, and onions). We will stay here for a couple of days to do shopping wash clothes, and fill up with water before moving on.


Tuesday, 10 July 2012

Sondeborg in Denmark - fifth country visited

We don't count UK but so far we have been to France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, and now Denmark.
We are, however, really starting to cruise slowly now because we are enjoying the places and scenery so much. Corinthian sailors would be disgusted with our progress, but our excuse is quality rather than quantity, (it probably is that, just an excuse)!
We left Wandering Star watching the tennis on their satellite telly on Sunday 8th July and ambled through the lifting bridge at Kappeln and up the Schlei using just the genoa as we could not be bothered to rush. Incredibly picturesque with rolling hills coming down to the waters edge. We stopped and anchored in a little bay above the town of Schleswig and watched the world go by for a couple of hours and then turned back through the lifting bridge again and further down the fjord to an anchorage close the entrance. The weather forecast was not cheerful, ( second hand English weather approaching), so we anchored in 2 1/2 metres of water close to the shore for protection from the forecast wind. Not something you would try in a tidal environment. Just after we had anchored, a huge black cloud like a biblical portent of doom approached and it started to pour with rain and to thunder. A catamaran came scudding by and dropped anchor in even shallower water, and when the rain eased, Iain Kidsen (CA member) came over in his dinghy and invited us for drinks!
Next morning, Monday 9th Wandering Star came down to us, we sailed out of the Schlei and North to the large fjord that leads to Sonderborg and on to Flensburg. The middle of this fjord is the border between Germany and Denmark. The original border was much further South, making Denmark a considerably larger country, but in 1864, the Germans beat the Danes at the battle of Dybbol (close to Sonderborg), and so Denark shrunk.
The weather forecast for the area was grim predicting F6-7in the afternoon, but as we only had twenty miles to go to a protected anchorage and left at 9:30 we thought it worth the effort especially as it was a broad reach all the way.
Both boats roared down wind under genoa alone, the sails gradually being furled as the wind increased. To get into the chosen anchorage in Vemmingbund Bay West of Sonderburg required a cross wind reach and then we felt the wind. I only saw 35 knots but the local marina claimed it was gusting 40. The grief only lasted for an hour though before we were in the lee of land and both boats anchored in less than 3m and calm water with the wind roaring through the trees onshore but just a breeze at water level.
Today, 10th July was a record for a short sail, just three miles to the big marina at the entrance to the town of Sonderborg. A lovely historic town.
The queen of Denmark is here!
Nice of her to visit in her beautiful classic motor yacht 'Danneborg' just to see us, we have had a wash and brush up collected a case of beer from the local supermarket and await our invite to her summer residence!

Saturday, 7 July 2012

Kappeln

On Wednesday July 4th we left the marina at Moltenort after taking a walk around the village and visiting the memorial to the u boat crews that were lost at sea. Apparently 80% of the uboat folk never returned and there are rows and rows of names carved into the black granite facia. All very sombre. Of course we all have our own views on the whole issue, and one comment in the visitors book said it all, " Never again".
We had a lovely sail North along the coast in sunshine, although the seas were a bit lumpy, and then turned into Eckenforde. The Danish fjords are all wide with rolling green hills, quite reminiscent of Devon. The town of Eckenforde is at the head of the fjord and has two marinas. The one recommended to us and closest to the town looked very full and also uninviting because the wind by now had strengthened to about 20kn and as it faced back down the fjord and into the wind it looked as though it could be uncomfortable. We chose the bigger marina close to the naval base and were glad we did. Nice big berths, good facilities and restaurant together with free bikes to get us the 2 km into town. All for €18 a night inclusive of electricity.
The next day was spent shopping, particularly for beer, gin and whisky all of which are cheap here while the prices in Denmark are very high.
On Friday 6th July we were headed back down the Eckenforde by 9 am, and North again past the marina and resort of Damp ( well named, it was drizzling). Five miles further on we turned into the Schlei ( as in Sly). This is where Davies and Carruthers met Bartles, the skipper of the trading vessel and were taken duck shooting by the pilot in the Riddle of the Sands so we looked out for what we thought might have been the pilot's house.
A beautiful fjord bordered with green fields and woods with a number of tempting anchorages. We were bound for the town of Kappeln however and by 3pm we were in yet another box mooring right by the main drag and restaurants. Thank goodness the cruising association guide had mentioned the strong current that can run across these moorings because both Wandering Star and us made allowance for it and berthed without too much drama. Some others were not so lucky and ended up all over the place.
The current in these fjords is an interesting phenomena because there are no big rivers running into them and the current seems to be driven by barometric pressure but is not predictable. Today ( 7th July ) Keren and I watched it. No current at all until about 10.30am and by 4pm it was flowing fast enough to catch folk out again.
Apart from being a pretty place Kappeln has an amazing yacht chandlery. Run by a wizened old fellow it is an Aladdins cave of yachtie stuff, particularly things stainless.
Tomorrow we're off up the Schlei to look at Schleswig before heading to Flensburg, but that's another blog.

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Finally - the Baltic!

We left Rendsburg at 9 o'clock today ( July 3rd) and motored the last 15 miles to the Holtenau locks at Kiel. After jilling about for an hour the lights changed to green and we entered the 1/2 mile long lock together with about 30 other boats. After tying up alongside Wandering Star we paid our canal dues of €18, the gates closed the lock filled about a metre and the other gates opened to the Kiel Bucht, ( bay).
Almost directly across the sound is the marina at Moltenort/Heickendorf which extends a warm welcome to Cruising Association members. Pete managed to choose a box that would easily fit a 60ft yacht and of course we ran out of stern line before the bows were close to the jetty. Fortunately Peter Wilde, ( CA helper to the local representative) was on hand to hold our bow line while we juggled longer stern lines. He then took us into the local yacht club which is in an old wooden lightship moored in the marina. There we met a number of members, we're given coffee laced with ice cream and shown around the historic wooden vessel. What a nice welcome! The weather continues sunny and warm - long may it last

Sunday, 1 July 2012

Into the Kiel canal to Rendsburg

A long time since our last post. Wifi reception has been like the weather, bad.
From Lauwersoog we locked out into a grey lumpy North Sea on Tuesday June 26th having waited for a window in the weather to make the two longish legs across the German Frisian islands.
We were now really into Riddle of the Sands territory and headed to Nordeney. We immediately got into the spirit of the book by following a channel which was marked on both the chart and the chart plotter but had no buoys! Shore to the right and breakers to the left for about 3 miles, and no Davies on board.
We have noticed before that buoys can be moved or missing. Good job the wind was only F3, although the seas were big as a result of the previous windy weather.
We passed by the entrance to the rivers Jade and Weser where we counted 12 ships waiting on the tide to go up river.
The entrance to Nordeney is tortuous and quite intimidating for a West country sailor, because the channel makes a number of turns and the sand banks are evident by the froth and breakers quite close to the buoys. Fortunately, in this case the buoys are easily visible. Nordeney harbour and marina had, for us, nothing to recommend it and is a long way from town.
The crew agreed that Erskine Childers can keep the Waddenzee!
On the next day (June 27th), we sailed to Cuxhaven. A long day sail of 67nm but quite enjoyable as the wind was fair and the seas quite calm. We were sailing in company with an English couple in a Westerly Sealord called Wandering Star, ( Janet and Chris) with whom we kept intermittent contact en route. The river Elbe, running into Cuxhaven is very impressive. So wide at the entrance that you cannot see any shore but actually quite a narrow deep water channel with sandbanks to right and left. Lots of really big ships going both ways, so yachts have to stay outside the main shipping channel. Feels like being a hedgehog by a motorway.
Halfway along the channel to Cuxhaven we heard Chris calling on channel 16 to say that his engine had failed! Nice timing! We acted as relay for the Elbe rescue services, Alan talking on the radio while Anne and I turned around to go to him and made ready our heaving line and long warp.
What a display when we got back to him about 15 minutes later! The Elbe pilot vessel was standing by, while a police boat came storming up to drop a big RIB off a ramp at the stern in true commando style, and then the big SAR ( search and rescue) launch did likewise. Wandering Star was already taking a tow from a big Dutch yacht, so Jomora and the SAR launch stood by while they were towed into Cuxhaven marina.
We were very impressed with the response to the distress call, but apparently similar events happen quite often in the Elbe, and because it is such an important river for the German economy every effort is made to keep the channels clear for shipping.
The big marina in Cuxhaven is impressive. Nice box moorings with pontoons, clean, efficient and a really nice restaurant all for €18 a night! It is also a short walk from the old part of Cuxhaven which is surprisingly pretty.
At Cuxhaven Jomora had a crew change on Friday June 29th. Alan and Ann left on the train to see Hamburg before flying home and Keren arrived with Mike and Theresa. They had very kindly picked Keren up at Hamburg station the evening before and after showing her Hamburg had taken the trouble to drive her to Cuxhaven. Mike had even printed the details of the Kiel canal locks for us. Thank you both of you!
On 30th June we sailed up the Elbe on the morning flood tide to the southern lock of the Kiel canal at Brunsbuttel. We had such a tide that we were sailing at 9 knots in a F3 with just the genoa, do not fall overboard in the river Elbe! We counted at least twenty boats waiting to enter the Alte lock which is the one reserved for little people. The other one had an enormous cruise liner in it. We let all the folk gallop in, and as recommended we hung back, let them tie up to the slippery floating pontoon and then went alongside. I have worked out that being last through locks and bridges is the way to go.
The Kiel canal is also very impressive, especially considering that it was originally built by the Kaiser before the first world war. It is wide, tree lined with 40m high bridges and lots of sophisticated traffic lights, which fortunately apply to the monster ships that use it as we did not fully understand the instructions Mike supplied! Yachts scuttle along the sides of the canal, but there is plenty of room for all. The big ships are closely regulated with pilots on board and travel quite slowly.
The weather was glorious, ( have we finally left the bad weather behind??), shorts and T shirt again.
Mid afternoon saw us turning up the delightful tributary to Rendsburg where we tied up at the tree lined Regatta-Verien marina. We are getting good at box moorings finally, slid into this one like Nordic professionals.



Monday, 25 June 2012

Stuck in Lauweswoog

On the evening of Thursday 21st June, Ann and Alan Ramsden joined me at Grouw having got the train from Amsterdam airport. We had a long walk from the station as there are no buses that meet the train, and the only taxi service in the village went bust. Grouw is very pretty but not a teeming metropolis!
Never mind, we went to the same restaurant where Tina celebrated her birthday the day before and had a good feed and some liquid fuel. On Thursday 22nd we were weather bound, force 7 winds and impossible to exit our box berth, so more eating, drinking and reading!
On Saturday 23rd we were able to leave Grouw on a blustery but sunny day and motored to Leeuwarden. Leeuwarden has lovely moorings in the centre of town at Prinsen Tuin. These mooring have all the facilities but are in a grassed tree lined park area next to the old town. A very pretty stop.
The rain started during Saturday night and, by the time we left on Sunday 24th, it was pouring. Just our luck because we planned a long day through Dokkum and on to the marina adjacent to the sea lock at Lauwersoog. It rained and rained and rained. I have not seen it like that outside the tropics. Alan and I got soaked while Ann navigated and kept the spirits up with food and drink.
All things have an ending however, and we arrived to dry out, eat steaks and inhale two bottles of wine.
So here we are on Monday fretting to get to sea and on to German waters, but stuck yet again by F6 to 7 winds.

Thursday, 21 June 2012

Grouw waiting on a new crew

Interesting few days since last blog.
We spent three days in Einkhuizen, longer than planned but I had to pay a visit to my old company (Shell), in the Hague on Monday 18th June so it gave Tina and Lee a chance to visit what is probably the nicest city in Holland. While at Einkhuizen we also caught up with our good friends, Marianne and Casper.
On Tuesday 19th June we had a grand sail across the Isslemeer in the sun with a light breeze. We entered Lemmer through the large Princes Maargeret lock along with two 3000 ton barges. Three yachts like mice behind elephants!
The marina in Lemmer was easily the worst we have stayed in. As well as being expensive we had three tries before the stupid harbour master found us a box that was not already occupied or too narrow for us. Lee and I were fuming. Added to that there was a sign on the toilets that said that due to vandalism, they close at 10pm and open at 7am. This is in a marina that has no perimeter fence so free access to all.
We are supposed to be In a country where you are not allowed to flush solid waste through the toilets. So the marina management must assume that all the folk staying there have very strong bowels!
On Wednesday 20th June we motored up the canal to Grouw in sunny but breezy weather. Stopped at a nice marina, had a look around town and chose a restaurant for Tina's birthday dinner. Another marvellous meal.
This morning 21st June, we moved the boat to a more sheltered box in the marina, because a depression is moving in with strong winds, then Lee and Tina left to catch the train to Amsterdam en route home to Cornwall.

Friday, 15 June 2012

Enkhuizen

We left the lovely marina at Hoorn on a windy rainy Friday morning at 7am, ( 15th June). In view of the fact that this time doesn't exist for them in the real world, Lee and Tina were great, up and doing in fine style.
We headed into the F5 East wind to get around the first headland en route to Enkhuizen. The Isslemeer kicks up a surprisingly vicious sea, perhaps because it is so shallow. Lee felt distinctly average and Tina went from enjoying the pitching and spray to contemplative to being sick when we turned and started rolling.
The pain was not for long though as two hours later we passed through the lock at Enkhuizen and half an hour later were in the Compagnie marina.
The Enkhuizen lock is part of a long wall that effectively divides the huge expanse of the Isselmeer in half.
A small drama coming alongside a windward berth as Lee had not quite mastered the lassoing technique yet, which the Dutch seem to do with such aplomb. No matter, we went alongside near to the office which is supposed to be for two hours only and stayed there all day while we caught up with our horizontal time! We then moved to a box berth which was accomplished in fine style.
We will stay here for 4 days, partly to visit friends and go to the Hague, partly because the weather is going down hill for the weekend. No need to spoil a holiday for the young folk.

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Hoorn - with a crew

Lee and his girl friend Tina joined me on Wednesday 13th June and by 11am we had left the rather scruffy Aoelus marina and were motoring past the luxury hotel boats and out of Amsterdam and on to the Isslemeer via a lock and a road bridge. Good introduction for the younguns. The weather was sunny with a nice breeze, (but still cool) so we decided to see if the sails still worked. Naturally as soon as we had them drawing the wind died so back on with the donk.
The Isslemeer is a strange sort of inland sea for those who have not sailed there before. It is large enough that the far shore is not visible but no more than 5 m deep, in fact most areas are about 3m. It is funny to see what appear to be trees floating on the horizon to then find out that it is the far shore visible at anything up to 10nm away.
A short trip of about 10nm took us to the village of Marken. Marken used to on an island just off from Monickendam, ( it now has a causeway) and rumour is that, because it was isolated the folk were a bit strange due to inbreeding. Today it is a twee picture book village with green wooden houses small cobbled streets and restaurants / souvenir shops mostly catering for the tourist boat from Volendam. A small marina with average facilities, Lee and Tina's first experience of box mooring. They did very well. At 8pm we went out for dinner, (there are no less than five restaurants and a hotel). Would you believe they were all shut? Holland was playing Germany at football so they closed early! Maybe what the local folk say is true? Back to the boat for Dad's chicken curry.
Thursday 14th June dawned bright and sunny again with a very light N wind, and the young ones raring to go. So we headed due North to the town of Hoorn, another epic 10nm voyage. Here we found a very pretty marina. Tree lined, full of water birds and excellent facilities.

Monday, 11 June 2012

Amsterdam - with me, myself and I as crew

Taking a yacht through the canals is much harder work than sailing at sea. At sea you just set the sails fire up the auto pilot and relax, (well almost). The locks and bridges in the Dutch canals are hard work. In some towns there are 5 bridges and each operator may keep you waiting for 10 minutes or so just to test your boat handling skills!
From the last blog you will know that Keren and Dianne left me at Dordrecht as Keren has "mum" duty.
From Dordrecht I braved the Oude Maas on Wednesday 7th June. This is a main through way to Rotterdam. Really big barges use this canal and it is not as wide as the more Southern ones. Fortunately they do not go too fast and know their business. However, at the first bridge out of the marina there was a strong current and nowhere to tie up. Interesting, stooging back and forth playing dodge the barge.
You learn boat handling under power fast here, especially with a dodgy prop!
From the Oude Maas, a handbrake turn right takes you up the Hollands Ijssel canal to Gouda, and another heap of bridges. At Gouda a good friend Ton van Beek joined me, stayed the night and then guided me to Warmond where I saw Dutch boat service in action. The yard owners wife gave us a cup of coffee while Jan Bakker lifted Jomora in his travel hoist. Rubbish in the prop. We went for lunch and came back to find the boat in the water having had prop fixed, hull pressure washed and topsides cleaned, all in the cost of a one way hoist, 150 euros.
I stayed in Warmond over the weekend to visit these good folk and another friend who lives close by.
Ton is on the committee and ex Commodore of the Royal Kaags Yacht Club. This club over 100 years old and owns two marinas in Warmond one of which is where I was berthed. So on Saturday 9th June I went to watch gig racing from the clubhouse with Ton and his wife Catharina. The gigs are exactly the same as those we see in Cornwall, and one of them "Dutch Courage" was made in Teignmouth and raced this year in Scilly.
Enough lounging around. On Sunday 10th it was time to head North again if I was to have any chance meeting Lee and Tina (our son and girlfriend ) in Amsterdam.
A lot of the canal work in Holland is governed by the opening times of the railway bridges because, whereas as most of the road bridges open on demand, (see previous comment), the rail bridges only open at certain times of the day. In this case the opening time was at about 6pm, so it made for a late start and a consequently late arrival at the next stop, Haarlem. Fortunately, met up with a very nice Dutch couple in an immaculately restored Contessa 32, so we cruised in company which made the journey less tiring. Quick look around Haarlem, a lovely city, before getting the head on the pillow.
Today, Monday 11th was again governed by a railway bridge opening time and the big motorway bridge opening time at Spaarndam. Lots of yachts making the transit in convoy so yours truly hung well back out of the inevitable melee close to the bridges. After the Spaarndam motorway bridge it is just a few hundred metres to the Nordzee canal which runs right through Amsterdam where there are two marinas ( Sixhaven and Aeolus) just a ferry ride from the central railway station. Most folk stay at Sixhaven but there is a tunnel being built next to it with all the attendant noise and dust, so I chose the other option. The weather was kind today breezy and sunny until I got into the Aeolus marina and got the cockpit tent up. Then thunder, lightning and the heavens opened. Don't think Keren need worry about me doing the town tonight in the rain. There is a restaurant around the corner with sea bass as the fish of the day so the hot spots can wait!

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Dordrecht

Dutch hospitality and efficiency.
The harbour master helped us to berth alongside in his little launch then directed us to the local chandlery who ordered a new water trap that was delivered the next day.
Today, Tuesday 5th June I fitted it tested the engine and off we went to Dordrecht. A four hour motor along the Hoolandsdiep and turn right up the Oude Maas. Lots and lots of big commercial barges, monsters but all very sedate and giving us plenty of room. They only travel at about 7knots and the canals are quite wide so the wash is not too bad. Interesting event was going under the big railway bridge at Dordrecht called the Spoorhefbrug, a huge thing on which a section lifts vertically. The railway bridges are the real pinch points on the canals because they only open at certain very specific times so one needs to plan around them.
We were surprised at how strong the tidal current still is. We had about 1 1/2
knots against us while going up the Oude Maas.
Also surprising is the rural aspect of the canals. Dordrecht is a big city and yet the canal is tree lined and seems quite "countrified".
We are in a delightful small marina called Maartensgat, right below below the Grote Kerk in what seems like a residential part of the down town area. The marina has a little courtyard with tables and chairs. The tables have vases with flowers and there is a crested Grebe nesting under the pontoon.

Monday, 4 June 2012

A bit of a train wreck - Willemstadt

Set out this morning in horrible weather to motor from Willemstadt to Dordrecht. Got into the main channel and the water temperature warning light and alarm went on. Something in the exhaust. By the time we got anchored and got sorted we had cooked the Vetus water trap. So limped back into Willemstadt. We have ordered a new water trap which will arrive tomorrow and will move on after I have done repairs either later in the day or early on the 6th. Sometimes wonder whether caravanning be an easy option!!



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Sunday, 3 June 2012

On through S Holland - Willemstadt

Do you know that this is the coldest summer that Holland has had for 40 years? Only we could arrange that. Still we are having fun -
On Thursday 31st we arrived in Middleburg where we stayed for two days.
Lovely very typical Dutch town with the marina right in the centre and a super little yacht club 50 metres from the boat that serves marvellous food. On the second day we toured the town saw the sites, and of course ate Patat Frites mit mayonnaise from a little stall in the market place. Middleburg was bombed during the Hitler war and was virtually destroyed but it has been beautifully rebuilt.
On Saturday 2nd we headed North and then East through the Veerse Meer, and were amazed. This area is like the Norfolk Broads only much much bigger. It is a mini cruising ground in a million with lots of little islands with pontoons and anchorages. The shore is also dotted with camp grounds and sailing centres for children.
We have found that the large locks in this part of Holland can take quite a while to get through, although the level change is quite moderate and the lock keepers control the inflow much better then the the French. We stayed the night in a little inlet outside a place called Sint Annaland. We elected to pick up a morning just outside the marina because we have a propellor problem that is making reversing something of a lottery and this marina was full of weekend sailors. The propellor issue is entirely my fault. Jomora has a folding prop which I had thought about changing for this trip, but it slipped to the bottom of the jobs list, and the big fishing net we caught on the way to Cherbourg has obviously damaged it. Thanks to one of our Dutch friends we have a plan in hand to slip the boat and check out / change the prop.
Just as forecast the clear ( but cool ) weather ended during the night and a front came howling in from the North East bringing wind and rain.
Today (Sunday 3rd June) we slipped the buoy and headed roughly North in the driving rain though the Oosterschelde and into the Hollands Deip to Willemstadt. 2 big locks negotiated, and glad to be tied up after 5 very lumpy hours.
Right now at 8pm we are sitting in a restaurant overlooking the harbour stuffing ourselves with lovely food. By the way we go on record that we have so far had stunning food in Holland quite reasonably priced. I am eating a huge mixed grill with mushroom and red wine sauce and baked potatoes, and Keren is stuffing herself with garlic prawns.
Tomorrow onwards to Dordrecht.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Holland - at last!

It feels like we have been sailing along the coast of France forever.
After our last posting at Fecamp we Sailed to Dieppe. A nice town with echoes of the well to do English visitors of the early 20th century. Sisley stayed there and painted some pictures of the town and it's folk, and the "in" set of the era including Noel Coward frequented the town. Unfortunately we had to stay there for 3 rather than 2 days because our next port of call Boulogne was closed due to a Regatta! Can you imagine closing Fowey for visiting yachts during Fowey week, to say nothing of Falmouth? We considered Calais for about one minute because it is not a place that I would choose to visit in a yacht.
So finally on Sunday 27th May we left Dieppe for Boulogne, and down came the fog! Thank goodness for radar, a chart plotter and AIS because for 7 hours we had not more than 250 yards visibility. We used the chart plotter and the radar to enter Boulogne as we could only just see the light tower as we entered the harbour. Of course by the time we got to the marina the sun was shining!
Boulogne is not a place we will return to in a hurry, a scruffy little marina right alongside one of Europe's biggest fishing ports with a smell to match.
On Monday May 28th we sailed for Dunkirk, a distance of about 50nm, ( all the legs in this part of the cruise are between 40 and 55nm, a comfortable days sailing).
Fog again, and this was a real concern because we had to pass Calais and enter Dunkirk, both harbours being ferry terminals with ships entering and leaving all the time. Fortunately the weather cleared by the time we rounded Cap Gris Nez so we had visual contact with the ships as well as via radar and AIS.
Both ports have a traffic control system which is very good at Calais. A very nice lady told us to "attend" until the Spirit of Normandy ( high speed ferry) had left. And then we could scuttle across the shipping lane like Miss Marples crossing the M25.
Dunkirk was a big disappointment. We had planned to stay at the Yacht Club de Mer du Nord marina as it is close to the centre of town and the yacht club has a nice restaurant, but we had not counted on Monday being a French bank holiday and the marina was full. We were obliged to stay at the new Marina Grand Large in the outer port. Large the marina is but definitely not grand. Set in an industrial estate half an hour brisk walk from the town and badly managed, it has nothing to recommend it.
Rather than stay for more than one night, we decided to push on and get to Holland so we sailed on Tuesday 29th for Vlissingen (Flushing), with possible stopping places at Ostend, Zeebrugge or Breskens if we got too tired.
There is a big shipping lane just offshore along this part of the coast so we stayed well inshore, in about 10m water depth to keep well away from the behemoths and to cheat the foul tide which runs at anything up to 3 knots along the coast. Once agin we had to play dodge the shipping across Zeebrugge entrance and waited for permission from Port Control.
The shipping along this part of the coast and into the Westerschelde ( which leads eventually to Antwerp via Vlissingen) has to be seen to be believed. A line of ships going East and West stretching as far as you can see. No wonder the French, Belgians and Dutch have such a sophisticated jointly controlled radar and shipping control system. They say you can be fined for crossing the shipping lane without calling them up!
Finally at 6 pm a very tired crew made the Michael de Ruyter marina in Vlissingen, and were treated to the best supper we could find.




Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Fecamp

An eventful few days.
Sailed to St Vaast la Hogue on Monday 21st after waiting an extra day in Cherbourg while a force 7 front went through. We finally had some sun there after nearly a week of grey skies. St Vaast is one of those typical channel harbours that dries out to miles of sand when the tide is out. The harbour has a lock which means that timing the entry and exit is critical.
Next day, Tuesday 22nd was also sunny and we sailed to Ouistreham. A nice days sailing under our twin jib system with the wind behind us, and another day of sunshine. We were even accompanied by a school of dolphins who got quickly bored at our speed after about fifteen minutes. Just after we entered the outer harbour at Ouistreham the Brittany Ferries " Normandie" arrived he filled the channel, good job we were out of the way!
Today Wednesday 23rd we left early and sailed to Fecamp with no wind but a big swell which is the leftover of the continuing Strong North West winds. Fecamp has one claim to fame, it is the home of the liquor Benedictine which is distilled in a very baroque palace. We visited drank Benedictine and were impressed.
Still not able to get the blog to accept photos from my photo album on the IPad, will keep trying so watch this space.


Saturday, 19 May 2012

Dartmouth to Cherbourg

An eventful trip.
Friday
Left Darthaven marina at 5 am Friday 18th May, and motored into a big big sea with little wind and what there was from 30 to 40 degrees off the bow.
For the first time in years Peter was violently sick for about 3 hours, ( he swears it had nothing to do with the large portion of fish, chips and mushy peas he had the night before!). On we motored sailed playing dodge the freighter through the shipping lanes where we finally got some breeze and could start close reaching under sail. 85 miles on a close reach for 14 hours, not our idea of fun!
To cap it all, we got very strange noises while reversing at Cherbourg marina, and we could see the green polypropylene around the folding prop.
Saturday.
Full English breakfast French style at the marina cafe, followed by a stroll around the old part of Cherbourg and a visit to the abbey. The crew gave Cherbourg a top rating, nice town nice people.
When we returned, the marina captain towed to the fuel pontoon and then to a nice quiet berth where Pete could don wetsuit and snorkelling gear and clear the prop, (2 plus metres of heavy fishing net). He wouldn't take payment for the tow, said it was part of the service! So the marina gets AAA rating.
Currently (5 pm) waiting on the latest weather forecast to decide whether we move on tomorrow. Could be force 7 which means we stay here!
Still unable to import photos from the iPad photos folder to this app called blogspot. Anyone got any ideas?

Location:Cherbourg marina

Thursday, 17 May 2012

17th May - In Dartmouth

Nice sail from Falmouth, clear skies and a good wind by lunchtime, but cold! The temperature was more like March than May.
Currently at Darthaven marina waiting for a low to blow through, and completing a couple of jobs that didn't get done in time.
Hopefully off tomorrow at 5 o'clock to make Cherbourg (85 NM) by the evening.
Still trying to upload photos onto this blog - keep getting a message that there is a problem even though the photos are just being transferred from the photos App on this IPad to this blog!

Tuesday, 15 May 2012

We're off, - well nearly!

Leaving the mooring and planning to clear Pendennis light at Falmouth harbour entrance at early o'clock on Wednesday 16th May. Then to Dartmouth and either Alderney or Cherbourg depending on the wind.
We managed to get most of the house and boat chores completed, and think that we have got everything we need on board.
At the last minute Keren decided that there will be a shortage of tonic water for the G and T in parts foreign so we have stocked up with Schweppes. Jomora must be floating at least an inch below her designed depth.
Fellow club member Dianne Webster has joined us for the up channel leg. She sails a Folkboat cross channel, so to her a Sadler 34 is luxury. Just hope she doesn't get to sail in other member's bigger boats and get spoilt.

Friday, 27 April 2012

Getting ready to go to the Baltic

We plan to leave mid May and head by gentle stages across the channel, through Normandy and Holland to the Baltic via the Kiel canal. We
still have lots of jobs to do on the boat and at home!
The weather isn't helping, lots of rain and wind.
Also trying to get a WIFI booster hooked up. This involves trying to understand the techno speak of the folk selling the equipment.
Just found that the tricolour navigation light bulb at the top of the mast has blown and that we a slight diesel leak in the secondary filter - add these to the "to do" list!